Rolling on the River: Tennessee River Cruise 1999

By Ken and Nan Jorgensen

It winds, bends, turns, and often boxes the compass on its 650-mile journey to the Ohio River at Paducah, Kentucky. Its shoreline varies from high cliffs to sandy beaches as it flows from narrow to broad river and opens into large lakes. From one end to the other, the Tennessee River is a magnificent body of water. It's also part of a network of 25,000 miles of navigable rivers and harbors linking ports in 20 states from the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico.

Last September, 85 hardy souls spent five days traveling 451 miles downstream heading north on the big river that runs through Alabama, Tennessee, Mississippi, and Kentucky. We came from 17 states and Canada, representing 15 ACBS chapters. A true test of men, women, children, and machines, the cruise is an exercise in organization and stamina rewarded by the sheer excitement of being on the water with new and old friends.

We came with old and some not-so-old boats, ranging in size from Norman Blackley's 16-foot 1927 Chris Craft "Jr." to Jean Hoffman's 33-foot 1929 Baby Gar "Whooter II," from show-quality finish to the weekend-user variety. For the first time, the cruise included five lapstrake boats, which have become increasingly popular during the last decade.

We'd prepared for weeks, months, and in some cases years for the five-day cruise, during which we would pass through five lakes and four locks that would drop us 250 feet on the river. The construction of locks and dams in the '30s, '40s, '50s, and '60s spawned the building of state parks and a multitude of marinas and restaurants. It was at these waterfront state parks and resorts that our cruise members slept between clean sheets under rain-tight roofs at every stop after 100-mile days on the river. We fortified ourselves with an abundance of good food, many of us ordering southern-fried catfish night after night.

Saturday, September 11

Saturday is the day when people from all over the country arrive with their boats at Mac's Landing Resort and Marina on Guntersville Lake in Alabama. It's a time for renewing acquaintances, checking out improvements to boats since the last cruise, and meeting new people with "new" old boats.

Formal festivities began with an Island Luau Saturday evening at nearby Lake Guntersville State Park Resort. The state parks along the river in Alabama, Kentucky, and Tennessee have wonderful facilities that include large modern marinas, lodges, campgrounds, restaurants, and golf courses. During recent years many have been remodeled and expanded to meet the growing demand for conferences and seminars.

That night we dined on whole pig and redfish with all the trimmings, and cruise members and guests enjoyed the spectacular view -- 600 feet below -- of Guntersville Lake, the first of five lakes we'd cross on our cruise down the river.

Earlier in the day some of us traveled to Buster and Anne Pollard's newly constructed Adirondack-style home on Buck Island, a short distance away by water. This unique house was built with logs imported from New York - you may have read about it in the Wall Street Journal. The hospitality of Buster and Anne, long-time Dixieland Chapter members, was greatly appreciated by all of us.

A visit to the bat cave on Guntersville Lake was another pre-cruise side trip. The group was amazed to see tens of thousands of gray bats leave their cave for the evening feeding over the water. We began the return cruise of the 24-mile round trip after sunset, guided by flashing navigation-aid lights that mark the channel.

Sunday, September 12

Boat owners began the day with a 500-mile round trip to deliver their tow vehicles and trailers to our destination point at Paris Landing, Tennessee. The trip went smoothly, aside from the three who were almost left behind and the return bus' air conditioning, which broke down.

Meanwhile, the "Go Back Cruise" group, a small, tough cadre of boaters who decided they were sturdy enough to run the cruise backwards, avoided the dreaded round trip by land and spent the day lounging. While the guys and gals were taking care of business, Nan Jorgensen took a group to the Boaz Outlet Mall for some Sunday afternoon shopping.

Monday, September 13

On Monday, the greatly anticipated start of the cruise finally arrived. We headed to the Guntersville Lock, a mere twelve miles downriver, the first of the four locks we'd traverse on the cruise. From the 1930s through the 1960s, 10 locks and dams were constructed on the Tennessee, forming reservoirs or lakes in between. Operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, which also has responsibility for maintaining minimum-depth navigation channels on the river, the lock chambers range in size from 100 feet wide by 600 feet long to 100 feet wide by 1,000 feet long.

Because of commercial traffic, which has priority, the lockmaster guided us through the much-smaller chamber of the auxiliary lock. Rafted wall to wall, our 27 boats ran almost the entire length of the lock. Cooperation by skippers and crews helped those who were new to the locking game as we were lowered 40 feet.

Scenery along the way, especially in the Guntersville area is mountainous with sheer rock cliffs. One cruise member who anticipated a long, narrow river was surprised at the varied terrain and conditions.

We docked for the night at Joe Wheeler State Park in Alabama, where we were greeted at a reception given by Rod Graves of Graves Plating, a most welcome break after the 84-mile trip. At Wheeler we docked in front of the lodge, and many had the pleasure of watching their moored boats from their rooms.

Tuesday, September 14

Used as a trade route by early Native Americans and later by French, Spanish, and English explorers as well as by Civil War gun boats, the Tennessee River is today a modern waterway providing for flood control, recreation, power generation, and commerce. It's a busy river: we shared it with tows pushing barges up to 1,200 feet long transporting petroleum products, coal, grain, and building materials.

We began the day as we did every morning, with a skippers' meeting in which we shared up-to-date information from the lockmaster on lock availability. Today was the day we'd pass through the Wheeler and Wilson Locks, an awesome experience. Wilson Lock has the third highest lift in the world - we were lowered 93 feet between wet and slimy walls.

Later in the day, we crossed from Alabama into Tennessee and moored at Pickwick Landing State Park after 69 miles on the river. Some of us got a ride in state patrol cars to the park's beautiful, modern lodge built back off the river. After a hard day, we welcomed the chance to lounge around the lodge's lovely pool.

Wednesday, September 15

Our lunch Wednesday at Fisherdale Dock and Restaurant was another treat of home-cooked catfish and cheeseburgers. A grand welcome by the Decaturville Chamber of Commerce and locals viewing the boats made for a pleasant afternoon.

Further on downriver, we pulled up for the night at the very rustic Birdsong Resort and Marina in Camden, Tennessee - a special treat after a 104-mile day. The lodge units accommodated more than one couple, leaving Nan and I, as cruise directors, with the enormous responsibility of deciding who stayed with whom.

Owners Bob and Janice Keast and their staff showed us the true meaning of southern hospitality. Birdsong is the home of America's freshwater pearl industry, and Bob took the time to explain how pearls are cultured from Tennessee River mussels and made into jewelry.

In 1905, the U.S. Government intentionally sank a number of Civil War gun and workboats. We had an opportunity to see a Union boat that our host had recently raised off the bottom. Bob is now looking for a gunboat to raise as his next project.

Dinner under the pavilion and bingo at the marina showroom made for a perfect end to a perfect day.

Thursday, September 16

A traditional country breakfast prepared us for the trip to the summer home of Dixieland Chapter members George and Shirley Wright and their son Robert. As we made our way out to the main body of the river, we were met with high wind and rough water.

Our plan was to travel downriver past Paris Landing State Park to the Wrights' home, but after 42 miles of rough-and-tumble navigation all but one of our skippers decided to pull off into Paris Landing and drive to the Wrights' for lunch. Turning into the channel was a thrill a minute. The wind was blowing hard, and large waves hit us broadside. Not many of us escaped an early shower.

Jerry and Norma Wilkin and their crew decided to chance the trip in their 28-foot Gar Wood and arrived unscathed at Big Bear Marina near the Wright's home in Kentucky. I wish you could have seen Norma's face when she said to Jerry, "You mean we are the only ones who came by boat?"

This is the second cruise the Wrights have hosted for lunch, and in recognition of their interest in the Dixieland Chapter and the Tennessee River Cruises, Dixieland Chapter President Tim Brown awarded the couple the ACBS President's Bowl.

Following a late lunch we drove back to Paris Landing and called it a day. After the long haul downriver, it's always comforting to reach your destination and see your towing vehicles and trailers waiting there, right where you left them.

Friday, September 17

We were delighted to awaken to clear skies and calm waters on Friday. On this most beautiful day of the cruise, we made a 90-mile round trip to Patti's Restaurant in Grand Rivers, Kentucky. The sun was warm, and the air was cool, and after lunch some of us took time out for antique shopping.

At the northern end of Kentucky Lake, Barkley Canal connects the Tennessee River with the Cumberland River. We rolled through the canal and actually motored several miles on the Cumberland, which flows to Nashville and beyond. A new river - and the scenery and adventures that await - always beckons to those of us who love the water, but save that for another trip.

Friday evening the cruise officially concluded with the Seafood Banquet Dinner and awards presentation. The highlight of the awards ceremony was the induction of those new to the cruise into the Tennessee Squire Association, an honor accorded to all who braved the trip for the first time.

All told, we accounted for 627 feet of mahogany; 5,788 horsepower; 10,239 boat/river miles; 2,951 gallons of fuel; 1,404 meals; 1,120 pounds of ice; 1,473,280 propeller revolutions at 2,400 RPMs; and incalculable cocktails.

This is the last cruise that Nan and I will be leading. Each of the previous three cruises have been a pleasure to organize and a joy to make. The camaraderie and companionship of antique boat enthusiasts from all walks of life has been an extraordinary experience. The next cruise will be directed in 2001 by Tim Brown of the Dixieland Chapter. Watch for the listing in a future issue of the The Rudder.

At the conclusion of the awards ceremony, Nan and I were overwhelmed by the thoughtfulness of all the cruise participants, who presented us with a savings bonds for our grandchildren. And we were especially moved by the individual who said, "This has been the best week of my life."

A special thanks to Karen Kephart of Austin, Texas, who assisted in the preparation of this article.