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EXPERIENCE
Mexico

Mexico’s new tourism frontier: Exploring south of Tulum

Mark Rogers
Special to USA TODAY

The decision to develop Cancun as a Mexico tourism beach destination was famously determined by computer in the late 1960s. Cancun became a huge success and inspired further development south along Mexico’s Caribbean coast. First, there was the Riviera Maya, which was conceived as a nature-based destination to complement the glitz and gloss of Cancun. Further south was the stunning archaeological site of Tulum, which attracted day-trippers in such numbers it eventually developed into an overnight destination in its own right, with shops, restaurants, and eco-chic hotels. The next step after Tulum is following the same course by continuing south, developing tourism projects along the Mexico’s Caribbean coast, which ends at the country’s border with Belize.

Most visitors will fly into Cancun International Airport. There they can opt for a personal tour guide, a taxi or, for the most intrepid, a car rental of their own. Renting a car for a self-drive adventure is easier than you might think. The main highway south of Cancun is Route 307. It’s a well-maintained road with excellent signage. Stick to the main highway as you motor south and you’ll find it easy to stay on course.

It’s feasible to stay in Cancun, Riviera Maya or Tulum and still set out on day trips to explore attractions in the south. Cancun offers megaresorts in a variety of price ranges and is recommended for travelers who want to combine exploration with high-octane nightlife. Riviera Maya is a good choice for families and nature lovers, while Tulum is perfect for those looking for boutique-style hotels where the atmosphere is low key. Travelers deciding to base their vacation south of Tulum will find a variety of lodging choices, including sophisticated resorts, laid-back eco-lodges, and four-star hotels that deliver the basics.

Exploring south of Tulum

The three main tourism destinations south of Tulum are the small towns of Bacalar and Mahahual, and the larger city of Chetumal, which is near the Belize border.

At first glance Bacalar looks like a beach destination, although it’s actually 16 miles inland on the shores of the Lagoon of Seven Colors, so named because of its range of hues. Bacalar attractions include the 18th-century Fort of San Felipe, which contains a pirate museum complete with ship models, weapons of the day, and an unearthed pirate skeleton. Another notable sight in town is the colonial-era San Joaquín Parish Church, beautiful in its unadorned simplicity.

Overnight travelers in Bacalar looking for an upscale experience should opt for a stay in the Mía Bacalar Luxury Resort & Spa. The resort’s Je’ex Suites have such luxe amenities as Jacuzzis, and the Saasil Rooms feature private rooftop terraces with impressive views of the Lagoon of Seven Colors.

The Hotel Aires Bacalar is more rustic than Mía Bacalar, and more whimsical in its design. Hotel Aires Bacalar is located within town a block from the lagoon, and also provides water views from its rooftop terrace and select rooms.

Directly south of Bacalar is Cenote Azul. Cenotes are naturally formed freshwater pools that are fed by underground rivers. These were magical sites for the Maya. Today, cenotes offer unique swimming, snorkeling and diving experiences. It’s been determined that Cenote Azul is 295 feet deep. Enhance your visit by grabbing a meal at the alfresco palapa-roofed restaurant on the shores of the cenote.

The beachfront village of Mahahual – a former fishing village – is smaller than Bacalar. The town has a malecón, or beachfront promenade, a large coral reef with great conditions for divers and snorkelers, and a laidback ambiance. A popular choice for lodging is the Blue Kay Beach Club, which offers affordable beach cabins.

Chetumal is a border port city that thrives on business rather than tourism. For some travelers, this will be a plus rather than a minus since Chetumal delivers authenticity. There are some sights to take in, including the Museum of Mayan Culture, the city’s waterfront boulevard, the Manatee Sanctuary, and the nearby Mayan archeological sites of Dzibanché, Kinichná and Kohunlich. Hotels in Chetumal are four-star and below; a hip choice among them is the centrally located Urban 101 Hotel.

Whichever base point you choose south of Tulum, pencil in some time to visit the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve. This is a protected area of 1,080 square miles of wetlands, coastal areas, mangroves, savannahs and tropical forests. Birders will be especially intrigued, since the reserve is home to 300 species of birds. The Maya archaeological site of Muyil is situated on the western edge of the reserve, adding a cultural component to a visit. While it’s possible for travelers to visit the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve on their own, there are plentiful full-day, small group tours. The majority of these depart from Tulum and Playa del Carmen.

A vacation on the Costa Maya is going to be a more serene experience than points north. There will be water sports, but more limited, and there will be fewer dining and shopping options. What Costa Maya will provide is a more contemplative experience. The region is a particularly good choice for those who want to dial down the buzz and thrum of social media and the demands for attention made by modern life.

 

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